Thursday, October 17, 2013

How to Wear Red Lipstick

Something every woman should know, because it never goes out of style, takes you from day to night in a flash, and lets you be super lazy about eye makeup.  Bonus:  its sexy as all get out.  Unless, of course, you've chosen a horrid shade and/or your lips are chapped, cracked and flaking.  Maddeningly, the wrong formula can actually CAUSE these problems, so what's a girl to do, buy every lipstick at Saks?

No, of course not.  I've already done that for you, many times over.  (Don't laugh, its sad, really.)  The first step is commitment.  Meaning exactly how committed are you?  Wearing red lipstick is a bit like strutting around in a bikini, you need confidence.  And confidence is partially material, partially spiritual.  You're on your own with the spiritual stuff, but the material can be broken down into three parts:  formula, shade, and preparation.

Choose a formula that has the right mix of pigment, shine, and emollients for your skin and your personality.  Not feeling bold, and suffering from a change in seasons?  Less pigment, medium to low shine, high emollients.  Channeling Veronica Lake?  True matte, tons of pigment, don't forget the liner.  Need a suggestion?  Email me, I'm happy to help.

Shade shouldn't fight with your skin tone, and I don't want to hear any nonsense about not being able to find a red that doesn't fight with your face.  Red is universally flattering, though not every red is universal.  I'm sallow and pale, but a brunette, so I generally trend toward more yellow-y reds.  Bluer reds will whiten your teeth.  Olive skinned types can lean to coral.  Porcelain blondes can rock a true red.  Raspberry looks amazing on virtually everyone.

If you've picked your ideal formulation and shade, but failed to prep, you could be toast.  Flaking lips, bleeding, smudging.  All potential disasters, and I've committed every possible sin in this area.  First, exfoliate your lips using either a baby toothbrush (soak it for five minutes in warm water please), a warm wet washcloth, or a scrub made of almond oil and coarse sugar.  Blot well, and apply a super hydrating balm (that absurdly expensive Sara Happ stuff really can't be beat) OR a super hydrating plumping balm if your lips tend to have lines.  After you've done your hair, makeup, etc., blot off all of the balm.  If you're not using a long wear formula or a matte, prime using a tiny bit of the gooped foundation from around the neck of the bottle, dabbing onto the entire lip, upper and lower.  (Skip this if your going for the stained look.)  Trace around the edge of your lips with a concealer pencil.

Now decide if you want defined and bold, or stained and casual.  If the former, use a liner in a very close shade.  If you want your lips to look fuller, stop 2/3 of the way toward the center of the lower lip on each side.  (Bonus fullness fakery:  dip a tiny stiff brush into sheer highlighter, trace just the outer top of your cupid's bow.) Fill in with lipstick (use a brush), blot, then fill again.  If the latter, simply press the lipstick into the center of your lower lip and to each side of your cupid's bow on your upper lip straight from the tube.  Press your lips together and rub a bit.  Voila!  You're glam and ready to go.