Product Review - IS Clinical Super Serum Advance Plus

Now that's a lot of superlatives in one title, even for an industry hell-bent on simultaneously making us insecure and promising to solve all of our problems at exactly the same time.  (And yes, it works, damn them.)  I've been using the same vitamin C serum for quite a few years now, and I love it.  Within a week of starting it, a co-worker gasped, 'your skin looks like glass!' So as you can imagine, the bar is set pretty high.  Vitamin C is one of the most powerful tools in the anti-aging arsenal, and has the bonus effect of increasing the efficacy of sunscreen.  Downside, unless stabilized, these serums tend to oxidize quickly, losing effectiveness (and starting to smell funny on occasion.)  Don't be a scrooge, use daily, and get the smaller size even if it seems uneconomical!

PACKAGING:

Brown glass apothecary bottle with a dropper.  De rigeur for this type of product, which is a straight-up liquid, and one which needs to be protected from light exposure.  Yes, glass is hell in the bathroom, but plastic reacts badly with vitamin c, so there's no getting around it.



TEXTURE:  Nearly clear liquid that turns slightly yellow-brown as the product runs down.  I found that this serum oxidized more slowly than my go-to serum, which was a plus.

USAGE:  I use this stuff in the morning, on a clean face, step one.  Do NOT combine with a retinol, save that for your night routine.  New users may find that its a bit strong; if so, use every other day until you build up a tolerance.  (This can be an even bigger problem for people with compromised skin barrier function, eg, those of you who suffered from acne in youth and baked in the sun.)  Use two to three drops for face and neck, and two drops for the decollete.  Let it absorb, then do your usual routine.  Bonus:  once absorbed, the serum cannot be rubbed, sweated, washed off.  Period.  Once its in there, its in there.

MIRACLE INGREDIENTS:  Vitamin C (duh) at a level of 15%, copper tri-peptides (which is a peptide consisting of three amino acids joined by a peptide bond.....which was not enlightening at all.  This particular set of amino acids delivers copper into the skin, which is particularly handy at healing, promoting firmness, and encouraging collagen production.) Also Asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid (antioxidants), Vitamin B5(hydrates), Arbutin, (increases cellular metabolism, aka waste elimination), and Kojic Acid (inhibits melanin production and lightens brown spots).

VERDICT: Super Serum Advance Plus is super.  Really.  Working together, you not only prevent future damage, but rapidly see improvement to past sins, particularly in the firmness and brown-spottedness departments.  I did the dread half-face test, using my proven powerhouse product on the right side of my face and Super Serum on the left side (which is kind of unfair, anyone who drives has more damage on the left side), and actually saw improvement in a stubborn sunspot, and a bit of improvement in a basset-hound type line that's been bugging me.  Bonus points for the stability of the formula.  Downside:  pricey, but then again, most of the Vitamin C serums are on the high end.  Enjoy!

Who Doesn't Love a Sale?

I can't resist one.  Exhibit A:  the number of pairs of shoes in my closet.  Cosmetics almost never go on sale, but every now and then, we all get lucky.  Evologie, reviewed previously, is not only having a sale,
http://www.evologie.com/shop-now.html (20% off with the promo code 'heather') but is also having a giveaway.  Shop and get a chance to win a full size Clear Skin Set, wahoo!  Good luck y'all!

Random Thought Bubble

But first, I have been totally absent.  Sorry, this work nonsense is....nonsense.  I will be better, I promise!

So I do a lot of shopping for skin, hair, nail stuff this time of year (no snide remarks like "when do you NOT buy lots of that stuff").  And the level of insanity that goes on in department and specialty stores has to be witnessed to be believed.

Case in point:  I recently visited SpaceNK, seeking a body scrub.  I specifically asked for something moderately priced, in a tube or a bottle, and NOT in a tub.  Personally, I cannot for the life of me understand why ANYTHING intended for the shower comes in a tub; you open the jar, it fills with water, you have to scoop it out, you no longer have a hand available to close the damn thing.  So what does the salesbabe show me?  The most expensive scrub in the store.  In a jar.  And she actually had the temerity to say that they don't carry anything in bottles or tubes, when on the shelf above, the shelf below, the shelf to the left and the shelf to the right, were tubes of body scrubs at one-third the price of the scrub she directed me towards.

To add insult to injury, she actually congratulated herself on helping me to find exactly what I was looking for when I shoved her out of the way and grabbed what I had asked for in the first place.  Remind me not to ask her or her colleagues to help me to find my dream hair product.....

How to Wear Red Lipstick

Something every woman should know, because it never goes out of style, takes you from day to night in a flash, and lets you be super lazy about eye makeup.  Bonus:  its sexy as all get out.  Unless, of course, you've chosen a horrid shade and/or your lips are chapped, cracked and flaking.  Maddeningly, the wrong formula can actually CAUSE these problems, so what's a girl to do, buy every lipstick at Saks?

No, of course not.  I've already done that for you, many times over.  (Don't laugh, its sad, really.)  The first step is commitment.  Meaning exactly how committed are you?  Wearing red lipstick is a bit like strutting around in a bikini, you need confidence.  And confidence is partially material, partially spiritual.  You're on your own with the spiritual stuff, but the material can be broken down into three parts:  formula, shade, and preparation.

Choose a formula that has the right mix of pigment, shine, and emollients for your skin and your personality.  Not feeling bold, and suffering from a change in seasons?  Less pigment, medium to low shine, high emollients.  Channeling Veronica Lake?  True matte, tons of pigment, don't forget the liner.  Need a suggestion?  Email me, I'm happy to help.

Shade shouldn't fight with your skin tone, and I don't want to hear any nonsense about not being able to find a red that doesn't fight with your face.  Red is universally flattering, though not every red is universal.  I'm sallow and pale, but a brunette, so I generally trend toward more yellow-y reds.  Bluer reds will whiten your teeth.  Olive skinned types can lean to coral.  Porcelain blondes can rock a true red.  Raspberry looks amazing on virtually everyone.

If you've picked your ideal formulation and shade, but failed to prep, you could be toast.  Flaking lips, bleeding, smudging.  All potential disasters, and I've committed every possible sin in this area.  First, exfoliate your lips using either a baby toothbrush (soak it for five minutes in warm water please), a warm wet washcloth, or a scrub made of almond oil and coarse sugar.  Blot well, and apply a super hydrating balm (that absurdly expensive Sara Happ stuff really can't be beat) OR a super hydrating plumping balm if your lips tend to have lines.  After you've done your hair, makeup, etc., blot off all of the balm.  If you're not using a long wear formula or a matte, prime using a tiny bit of the gooped foundation from around the neck of the bottle, dabbing onto the entire lip, upper and lower.  (Skip this if your going for the stained look.)  Trace around the edge of your lips with a concealer pencil.

Now decide if you want defined and bold, or stained and casual.  If the former, use a liner in a very close shade.  If you want your lips to look fuller, stop 2/3 of the way toward the center of the lower lip on each side.  (Bonus fullness fakery:  dip a tiny stiff brush into sheer highlighter, trace just the outer top of your cupid's bow.) Fill in with lipstick (use a brush), blot, then fill again.  If the latter, simply press the lipstick into the center of your lower lip and to each side of your cupid's bow on your upper lip straight from the tube.  Press your lips together and rub a bit.  Voila!  You're glam and ready to go.

Lovely and Amazing

There are few places on earth quite as wonderful as French pharmacies.  You don't need a prescription for most medications that you have to jump through three hoops to acquire in the US, the pharmacist will actually give you advice on everything from stomach upsets to cellulite, and they have a glorious bounty of beauty products found nowhere else on earth.

Slimming water! Slimming spray! Slimming bubbles (don't ask)! No, none of those actually work but they do come in lovely bottles with pictures of 14 year olds with perfect bums on the box. At the same time, one can find amazing creams, lotions and oils that do what they promise to do, and then some.

During my most recent trip, I discovered that the evil geniuses at LaRoche (evil because they ship a crap version of their amazing line to the US) have developed an SPF 50 body oil.  And not a greasy, stinky Hawaiian Tropic-y oil either.  No, this oil sinks right in but moisturizes all day, leaves a dewy sheen behind that doesn't stain one's clothes, AND protects one's skin amazingly well.  This alone is worth a trip to Paris...plus the macarons at Gerard Mulot.

Discontinued

One of the most disappointing words in beauty-dom.  My sister and I were hopelessly devoted to Pureology Real Curl, which was an absolute miracle worker:  it produced curls that all looked like they sprouted from the same head, stayed together, and didn't frizz.  Oh, and it didn't have a horrible perfume-y smell.  So naturally, they discontinued this product, and replaced it with something more expensive and totally ineffective.  Despite the Facebook pages that continue to mourn its demise, it ain't coming back.


So my sister and I, between us, have probably tried about 17 replacement products.  No contenders yet but we're looking for suggestions.  Comments welcome!

A Winner and a Loser

So I've been busy, busy, busy testing out new sunscreens, while trying to address two chronic obsessions:  a daily body lotion that is equally sun protective as it is moisturizing; and trying to avoid checking my luggage.  To those ends, I tried two new sunscreens, one of which I loved, the other.....not so much.

Let's start with the love.  Murad Essential-C Sun Balm comes in an adorable mini-deodorant style package, flat not round, solid not liquid, cream or gel.  (Ha, take THAT TSA goons!)  However, despite being a solid, its a remarkably moisturizing product, yet not at all greasy.  The texture is silky, and it glides on smoothly.  Even better, its packed with fabulous anti-oxidants like broccoli extract, and vitamins A, C, and E.  For an overnight trip, you can combine three products with this little beauty, making it that much more likely that you'll make it through security without having to check your bag.  Despite my love for this product, it does have its downsides.  The first is cost.  It comes with a very tiny amount of product in that cute little package, and frankly, it costs a fortune on a per-use basis, so don't even think about using it every day.  The second is the type of sunscreen, which is all-chemical (but no oxybenzone, yay) which requires more frequent application, and also requires a full 20 minutes to absorb before achieving full effectiveness.  But for the frequent business traveler, all totally worth it. 

Now the 'not so much'.  I was super-psyched to try CeraVe's body lotion with SPF, as CeraVe makes amazing moisturizers, packed with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and I am constantly looking for a more economic alternative to my beloved EltaMD body lotion.  This lotion comes in 30 and 50 spf, advertised as 'inVisibleZinc'.Now that right that is a total non-truth in advertising.  While I love zinc, and think it is one of the best options available in the US, until some genius figured out how to micronize it, it had a well deserved reputation for looking hideous and being difficult to apply.  This particular formulation is far from invisible, and is super difficult to apply.  It takes approximately eight minutes to rub it in thoroughly enough to avoid looking like I walked through a chalk mine, and I still have clearly visible white residue.  Am I moisturized?  Yes.  Am I shielded from UV rays?  Yes.  Do all my clothes now have white streaks that only the dry cleaner can remove?  Unfortunately, yes.  

Brace Yourselves

Because this topic is....gross.  But it has to be addressed, and I am just gonna come right out and say it:  fungus toenails.  

Everyone OK?  Good.  Now let's move on.  It is quite common to be afflicted by fungus toenails (or even fingernails), which are unattractive at best, painful at worst.  As the infection digs in, the afflicted toenail thickens, yellows, crumbles.  Eventually, the nail plate thins, and pressure on the nail can become very uncomfortable.  And did I mention that its a very unattractive condition?

Roughly a zillion things can cause a fungal infection under the nails, including the gym locker room floor, your pedicure place, moldy socks, a cracked nail.  Easy to get, fiendishly difficult to get rid of.  If you've seen those (disturbing) television commercials, it seems as easy as taking a few pills.  Which is sort of true, but those pills have pretty profound side effects, including potentially fatal liver damage.  (!)  Paint-on treatments take forever to work, and cost a fortune.  So what can you do?

Try this at-home remedy, which actually works, and costs virtually nothing, particularly when compared to prescription options.  First, stop polishing the effected nail.  Yes, it will look strange, but fungus thrives in the dark, so keeping polish off will both allow the treatments to actually reach the nail, and allow light to get in at the same time.  Second, keep the nail as short as possible.  Third, every day, soak the nail in a mixture of 1/2 apple cider vinegar, and 1/2 hydrogen peroxide, which will raise the PH of the nail and surrounding skin to an inhospitable level.  Fourth, after the first soak, do a second soak in a 1:3 bleach:water mixture (you only need a few minutes for this step.)  Fifth, once the nail is dry, swab on pure tea tree oil or monistat (yes, monistat) and wrap it in a band-aid.  Within a few weeks, you will see remarkable improvement, and within a few months, totally cured.

So You Want To Be A Texas Prom Queen

Or maybe you just want nails like a Texas prom queen, because they're long, they're bright, they're fierce, and they're back.  And not a minute too soon, I say.  I was so over sheer non-color that I practically did a backflip of joy the first time I saw a hot pink talon in Vogue.  The only thing that might make me happier would be a TPQ worthy hairspray that actually keeps my hair from curling once I've laboriously straightened it. 

Once we're all comfortable with nails that look like they belong in an 80's music video (or a sci-fi flick), we have to figure out how to actually get those nails without (shudder) slapping on some sort of fakies.  The style has been androgynously short for such a long time that we all forgot about the hazards of long-nail fashion, which include splitting, chipping, peeling and flaking.  Most of which are made dramatically worse by colored polish, which is MUCH more drying than boring sheer polish.

If your nails chip, crack, or flake, they're dry.  The best defense is religious use of cuticle oil, and either sleeping with gloves on (see "Horror Paws"), or at least keeping them on long enough to ensure that the oil totally absorbs.  Almost as important is the type of base coat you use, and how frequently you change your polish. 

Use a protein base coat, one specifically for dry nails.  I use Rejuvacote, and since I've started on it, my nails have been in amazing shape.  Finish your mainicure with an anti-chip topcoat, and you can change your polish half as often.  It won't hurt that Rejuvacote and similar protein treatments require multiple applications (yes, on top of color) in order to be effective, which keeps your polish shiny, and somehow flexible enough that it resists chips even better than the anti-chip topcoat alone.

Now rock on with your fabulous self and stay tuned for a step-by-step tutorial on how to DIY an ombre mani.

Well Its About Time

About time that warm weather has arrived?  Well, yes.  It is.  And with warm weather the jackets come off.  But specifically, I was referring to someone finally coming out with a replacement for the absurdly expensive body lotion with mineral sunscreen I've been using.  CerAve has a new one, and I can't wait to try it.  Details coming soon.....

Product Review - IS Extreme Protect SPF 30

I'm a total sunscreen geek.  (Just thought I'd point that out, on the off chance that slipped by you.)  Every year, a whole new batch hit the shelves, and since I go through multiple bottles over the course of spring and summer, I can go crazy trying out as many as I can get my paws on.

I was psyched to try the IS Extreme Protect SPF 30 after having fallen madly in love with the Clinical line's Hydra Cool Serum, even though it took me a while to figure out what the heck the difference was between Clinical and the not-Clinical line.  Other than the not-Clinical line coming in different packaging. 


PACKAGING:  Fat white plastic bottle with a pump. PLUS.  I had to think for a while before I decided to rate this a plus.  Given the texture, and my pathological need to use every last iota of product, I'd normally prefer a tube.  However, the clever folks at IS have pulled a fast one on the sunscreen-skimping general populace with this package (intentional or not), in that it dispenses a full teaspoon per pump.  Ha!  Tricks you into using the amount that will get you to that SPF 30 without my even nagging you.

TEXTURE:  Medium thick white cream.  Medium-low shine factor.  Zero residue.  The texture reads more 'sunscreen' than moisturizer, which took me aback initially, but again, this may be a strategy.  I know any number of guys who will use sunscreen, but almost none who will consent to moisturize.

USAGE:  Last step in the morning before makeup.  Or by itself if you're zooming out the door, natch. 

MIRACLE INGREDIENTS:  Beloved Zinc Oxide at a concentration of 4.12%, Octinoxate at 5.5%;  Vitamin E (hydrating); Aloe (anti-irritant and hydrating);  Olive Leaf Extract (anti-oxidant); Centella Asiatica (anti-oxidant, with circulation-boosting potential); and Extremozymes.  I have no idea what Extremozymes are, the IS team claims that they're enzymes that allow micro-organisms to survive in extreme environments, which then confer these miraculous protective capabilities on your skin.  Got it? 

Even without the extremeozyme thingies, this is an excellent, non-comedogenic sunscreen that moisturizes like a champ, while managing to be not at all greasy.  For me, its huge that a moisturizer provides such great sun protection and I LOVE it that the bottles dispenses the right amount without the user having to think about it.  Finally, there is something weirdly satisfying about the hefty, fat white bottle.  I'll have to discuss that with my shrink but in the meantime, check it out!

This Is Not a Product Review

But it would be if I had tested the product for the proper period of time. Even though it isn't an actual review, the effects (overnight) were so remarkable, I had to report.

L moved to a very, very dry climate about a year ago. At the same time, she changed a part of her routine that caused her to start breaking out pretty badly. Like most people who suffered from teenage acne, she launched a full-on assault with every harsh astringent, peel, and anti-microbial she could load into her CVS basket. The result? Dry, red, cracked skin. With acne.

Even if you break out as an adult, it is unlikely that oil is the primary culprit, as our skins produce less and less oil over time. In a dry environment, with all oil stripped away from the surface, this leads to massive dehydration and a compromised barrier, and ultimately a reduced ability to repair itself.  Or, the situation that L found herself in.

I busted out a sample of Sunday Riley's Good Genes, and insisted that she try it.  I had a vague (stress on vague, this all happened at 3 or so in the morning) recollection that it contained a high concentration of lactic acid and, um, other stuff, which would not only help to turn over the affected skin more quickly, but decongest and pack a wallop of hydration.  On top of that, a very thin layer of YonKa Creme PG for any active breakouts, and those lurking that I couldn't see yet. 

Lo and behold, the next morning, a visible difference.  Reduced redness.  Much smoother.  Just...calmer looking, and even a bit plumper.  (If that makes sense.) 

I've been a fan of Creme PG for a zillion years, but Good Genes warrants further investigation.  Stay tuned. 

Spring Has Sprung

Finally!  And with spring comes tulips and sun care shibboleths.  My top five, heard just this week......

1) Its cloudy
2) I'm only going to be outside for a half hour
3) My foundation has sunscreen in it
4) Its cold out
5) If I'm going to have all of these wrinkles, I may as well be tan

I think my favorite, in terms of total non-sequitoriousness, would be #4.  But "Its cloudy" gets the top spot due to sheer persistence.  The number of people who believe that clouds double as an umbrella simply can't be counted (tip:  clouds are water.)  The UV rays that burn and cause cancer zip through clouds just like they're.....vaporous water.  On a cloudy day, wear exactly as much sunscreen as you would on a bright, sunny day.

A half hour is plenty of time to get a nasty sunburn.  Even without a sunburn, a half hour a day, say twice a day, over the course of your adult life, adds up to a sh-tload of sun exposure. 

Yes, your foundation may have sunscreen in it, but what kind?  And how much?  Most of the women that I know use just a tiny dab, smaller than the size of a pea, once per day.  Whatever the SPF advertised on the bottle, to get that level of protection, you would have to use a full teaspoonful of foundation on your face and neck.  Worse, using inadequate sun protection may afford a sense of false security, and encourage you to stay out in the sun longer.  (Did I even ask if you reapplied??)

Mom, that last one's for you.  Tan wrinkles are still wrinkles, so use that self tanner I bought you instead.

This Is Not Normal

And I have a good hair day about once every eight weeks. Someone, please, make a styling product that works!

Miracle Salad

Not really, but that got your attention, right?  Its actually more of a miracle oil, that could easily be used in a salad dressing.  Get it? 

What we eat shows up on our skin, sometimes with dramatic effect.  And on our hips, but that's a topic for another blog.  What if something we eat were equally good for nourishing the skin from the outside as well as from the inside?  It would make shopping at Whole Foods either very efficient, or really confuse what goes in which aisle.

Such is the case with organic, expeller (cold)-pressed safflower oil, which is rich in oleic (or linoleic, depending on the type) acid and omega 6 fatty acids.  As an oil alone, its an excellent occlusive (or substance that helps to prevent water from escaping by forming a 'seal'), but the oleic acid and omega 6 fatty acids actually make safflower oil a potential body anti-aging powerhouse, fighting loss of elasticity and density naturally.  Even better, a diet rich in safflower oil, like in your salads, may even help to control acne by encouraging elimination of the gook that gets clogged up in pores. 

And a bottle will run you about $4.99.  Love.

Random Thought Bubble

It's bad enough when one's favorite lipstick, go-to cream, must-have concealer gets discontinued. I've written plenty of nasto-mails whining about the loss of cosmetics that I had unhealthy attachments to.

But when a whole line disappears? And not just retreats to Europe (guaranteed if they've been acquired by L'Oreal)? That's just....wrong.

I went to Jemma Kidd's website to buy her miracle eye primer, which not only prevents the dread concealer creep, but is (was) packed with peptides, thus preventing eyelid sag while ensuring all day fabulousness. And no matter how many times I clicked, the website was just...gone. Gonzo. Not there. The whole line went poof. (Dabs eyes with tissue.)

And just when I finished sitting shiva for my favorite mascara!!! As usual, I wonder why no one told me....

Product Review - Evologie

Acne. Even when it's hiding out, it's still somehow there. The teenage acne sufferer will assault his or her face with Ten-O-Six or straight lye well into his or her 50s, dead sure that the dread plague will attack from wherever it might be hiding at the slightest slackening of vigilance.

Typical treatment regimens skew hard toward anti-biotics, both topical and ingested, which work until they...don't. Birth control pills work for some types of acne (and then only for women) but not others. So if you've tried everything, topical anti-biotics aren't working any more, you're convinced that one more round of tetracycline will get you declares a national health risk, you're on the pill, you're still breaking out, but not badly enough to go the Accutane route?

Enter Evologie.  Rather than depending on benzoyl peroxide (which, while effective, can be drying and can bleach darker skins), the line utilizes something they call YS3 complex.  I have no idea what exactly that means.  BUT as far as I can tell, it contains Azelaic acid, and sulfur.  The former is both anti-bacterial and inhibits keratin, which contributes to clogged pores.  The latter is a powerful anti-bacterial, and unlike anti-biotics, is less likely to diminish in effectiveness over time (meaning that you're less likely to develop a resistance to it, unlike, say, to over-using Penicillin.)  And despite its claims to have an enhanced ability to deliver acne-fighting ingredients deep down where the problems start, the line claims to strengthen the skin's water retention barrier.  So your face won't, like, peel off and stuff.

I figured it would be a waste to just test this on my CLAcne, so I hoarded one component (Stay Clear Cream) for myself, and shipped off the whole system to a One-A tester for acne stuff, eg, a teenager.  The system is deceptively simple:  Stay Clear Cleanser, Intensive Blemish Serum, and Stay Clear Cream.  Easy:  wash face, apply stay clear cream, use serum on active breakouts.  Done!



Said zitty teen used the products for eight weeks (well, sort of, teenage boys are notoriously unreliable), and despite his failure to be consistent, actually found that the products worked.  He saw improvement in frequency, duration, and aftereffects of breakouts, and a significant reduction in oil.  The latter might make this a bit drying for the 40+ female set, so either 1) add a hydrating serum on top or 2) rotate the system in during heavy breakout periods, like summertime.  I used the extra bottle of Stay Clear Cream on my cleavage for the same period of time to test its ability to prevent breakouts, and reduce scarring and dark marks.  I was going through a rough patch of pimples from my sports bra when I started the test, and eight weeks later, I have definitely noticed a marked reduction, and some fading of the dark spots I had acquired in the ugly two weeks prior to the test.  Yay!

PACKAGING:  White plastic pump bottles.  Some clogging in dispensers (in that creams tend to dry out upon contact with air) but not spring loaded, so no issues with product shooting out irrationally.

TEXTURE:  Whitish, creamy textured.  Medium foamy cleanser, reasonably concentrated.  Stay Clear Cream spreads well, so the utility is good.  PLUS.  Bonus points for pleasant, green-teaish smell that isn't at all fragrance-y.  (Zitty teen claims to smell tea tree oil, but who listens to teenagers anyway?)

USAGE:  Morning and night, all three steps.  Wait a good ten minutes for the cream to absorb fully before applying sunscreen, and you MUST use a physical, oil free sunscreen with a high SPF when using any acne regimen.  The simplicity of the system is a PLUS.

MIRACLE INGREDIENTS:  That's a fine question, but it ain't benzoyl peroxide.  Best guess is Azelaic acid, salycylic acid, and sulfer, plus a barrier repair/restorative.  Despite sneering at the zitty teen's whiff of tea tree oil, my guess is that's in there too (which would be beneficial, given tea tree oil's powerful anti-microbial properties), and willow bark extract (OK, I scooped that from Google) as anti-inflammatory.  No parabens or sodium laurel sulfate.  PLUS.

This system gets the thumbs-up for those with mild to moderate recurring breakouts, particularly anyone resistant to anti-biotic treatments or with darker skin. 





 

Horror Paws

So there I am in the subway, minding my own business, when I'm suddenly faced with....the Hands of Destruction. Every knuckle-line bloody. Patches of skin so dry, they're greenish grey, cracked, and bleeding. I couldn't tear my eyes away. I wanted to rush over to the woman attached to those hands and....prescribe something. Anything.

When I was 12 or 13, I used to let my hands get that dry, or close to that dry, and then tell people I had leprosy. Sometimes they even believed me, my hands looked that hideous. Fortunately for absolutely everyone, I got over that phase and found new ways to get attention. Like getting arrested. But I digress...

We all suffer from dry hands this time of year, some of us worse than others.  Most suffer from a compromised lipid barrier (quick science lesson for everyone that zoned out during biology:  its the membrane that keeps stuff that belongs to one part, or one cell, from leaking into or out of its environment.)  Why does this happen?  Excessive hand washing.  Use of the dread hand-santizer.  Why dread?  This stuff is totally unnecessary in daily life, unless you happen to use a porta-potty instead of a bathroom with running water.  It dries out your skin, big time.  Reducing your exposure to quotidian germs probably INCREASES the likelihood that you'll get sick.  While I'm on the topic, quit using anti-biotic hand soaps too.  Not only are they redundant, they stay in the water supply, and impact the environment.  Who says fish need anti-biotics????  Shoot, I digress again.   Slap.  Sorry.

Now the owner of the hands that inspired this post probably had a pretty severe case of excema, in which case more drastic measures would be called for.  But for the rest of us, perhaps suffering from OCD and neglect, need to calm down on the hand santizer and engage in a little TLC.  If there isn't too much inflamation, use something with a high concentration of lactic acid (hydrates and sloughs excess dead skin) like AmLactin Cream.  Let it sink in, then seal it with something seriously occlusive and moisturizing.  Nothing beats Aquaphor, particularly on a cost-benefit basis:  glycerin and B5 in a super-thick formulation ensure mega-moisturizing capacity.  Then follow your grandmother's trick of wearing cotton gloves to bed.  Not only will it maintain a humid environment, it will keep all of that goop from migrating off of your hands onto your sheets, face, hair, etc.  During the day, apply moisturizer with sunscreen IMMEDIATELY after washing your hands, every single time you hit the sink.  I promise you will see a huge difference in three days!

Product Review - IS Clinical Hydra Cool Serum

Ah, the Oscars.  The dresses!  The jewels!  A whole lot of improbably perfect skin!!  Whenever I have my ladies over for an Oscar party, there tends to be a suspicious number of guests spending an even more suspicious amount of time in the bathroom, said time accompanied by incriminating clanking and rustling of the contents of my medicine cabinet.  The stars tell all on the red carpet about who made their dresses, who lent them their jewels, even which stylist put the whole look together.  But the facialist who rushed to solve a last minute zit issue, soothe a flareup of rosacea or eczema, intervene in a defcon-five level crisis of hangover face?  Nooooooo.  Not a word.  You're supposed to think that 1) they're born that way 2) what makeup and 3) by the way they never work out and eat burgers every day.

Anyway, enough of that.  I was super excited when I had the opportunity to try out a selection of IS Clinical's range.  Why?  Ummm.....I like the nice blue color that they use for some of their packaging.  Joking.  In truth, I had heard raves about a number of items, and my dermatologist asked me to check out the brand.  (Really.)

Normally, I give anything new at least six weeks to gauge the effect.  In this case, I'm making an exception.  Hydra Cool Serum is a high-powered hydrator, and produced instant results.  In the dead of winter, with a broken humidifier, that's impressive.  By 'instant results' I mean that I woke up the next morning with skin that felt comfortable, rather than a size too small.  Not only that, but this serum is excellent for irritated skin, caused by acne, KP, wind or sunburn (hello, ski season), rosacea, or the random mauling that I gave myself with my hairbrush.  Over time, consistent use may even reduce scars, inhibit mild acne, and reduce risk of hyperpigmentation.

Bonus:  (and going back to that Oscar reference, which you probably thought had nothing to do with anything) it can be mixed with foundation, making it a bit more sheer, and a lot more dewy.  So you too can look like you were born with incredibly fabulous skin, while actually doing something to get that fabulous skin.



PACKAGING:  Glass bottle with a pump.  PLUS.  This is a serum, meaning fluid, so a pump makes sense, as it isn't thick enough to dry out in the nozzle and clog, but not so fluid as to necessitate a dropper.  Don't drop the bottle in your sink!

TEXTURE:  Almost liquid, transparent greenish in color.  Two pumps should cover the entire face and neck.  PLUS.

USAGE:  Use as the last step at night, or second to last if you're REALLY dry (meaning under a moisturizing cream or balm), under sunscreen during the day, and mixed with foundation to fabulize and add an extra hit of skincare benefits at the same time.  When mixing with foundation, go very easy!  We're going for 'dew' not 'oil slicked puddle' here.

MIRACLE INGREDIENTS:  Hyaluronic Acid, a powerful humectant (in English, that means that it sucks water from the environment and binds it to itself, plumping and hydrating the surrounding tissue);  Vitamin B5 (hey, its a vitamin, that's good, right?  Plus, it too is a mega-hydrator, and helps with cellular metabolism);  Mysterious Mushroom Extract (I am going to refrain from a mega-tangent about mushrooms and all of their powers, but suffice it to say that this is a natural anti-microbial, and a source of kojic acid, which inhibits melanin production);  Centella Asiatica (anti-oxidant, with circulation-boosting potential, thus the possibility of reducing minor scars over time.)

Love it.  This stuff is an absolute keeper, and will be with me on all ski trips and flights from now on. 

Snow Day

Maybe its because I'm from the Midwest, but I love a snow day.  Not because I still go sledding or drive my mother so crazy that she hides in the basement with a beer, but because it forces me to control my control-freak over-active-type-A tendencies and just hang around my apartment.  Which is a great opportunity to give myself a facial.

Disclaimer:  I've never had a spa facial, so no comments about how Bliss or whoever does a facial.  I've worked this routine out based on years of practice on myself, my mother, my sisters, and my entire dorm floor. 

Start with clean skin, and then exfoliate.  Use a scrub, a gommage, an enzymatic mask, or a mild peel.  (Heavy stress on 'mild' for that last one.)  Personally, I like an enzymatic mask for a facial, I feel like I'm accomplishing something.  If you're a regular retinol or glycolic acid user, make sure you read the labels and don't leave a peel or enzymatic mask on too long, particularly if you haven't taken any time off from retinol in a while.

Next, identify your issues, and pick step two.  Blackheads?  Periodic break-outs?  Nothing really beats a clay-type mask.  If you have combination skin, you can even just use it on your t-zone.  Tip:  steam between steps one and two if you have blackheads.  DON'T use boiling water, DO tent with a towel, and I love to throw fresh rosemary and mint into the water bath.  Stay under there for a few minutes, no more.  When done, leave your skin damp, and pile on the clay.  Downside of most clay-type masks is that they can take a long-ass time to dry.  But then again, who cares?  Its a snow day!  You've got Netflix, you've got a DVR! 

Step three (or two and a half, depending on your skin type) should probably be a firming mask, with an eye treatment done at the same time.  Don't forget your neck and the underside of your chin and jaw!  If you're a fan of electrocurrent or infrared, use these gadgets during this step.

Finally, finish with a hydrating mask, remove with a damp washcloth after ten minutes, moisturize, and then....go back to your Thai takeout.  Because its a snow day.

Make It All Better

I will readily admit that I am NOT the Hair Care Guru.  (That's my friend Kristan at Serafino Says.)  In fact, when they taught Basic Hair in sixth grade or whenever, I was definitely out sick.  On a good day, I look like Raggedy Ann.  On a bad day, I look like a roadie for an 80's hair band.  (Best line from 2012:  "Def Leppard called, they want their hair back.")

But I have to say that even without Kristan's interventions, my hair is looking better, despite my determined neglect and failure to get trims, blowouts, keratin treatments, and my very bad habit of covering my grays with beard & moustache color.  Less frizz.  Less likelihood of frightening small children.  More likely to stay semi-straight for more than ten minutes.  Shiny, even.

What predicated this miracle?  A mysterious leave-in conditioner called Pure NV BKT One-For-All.

Why mysterious?  Because I have no idea how it works so well, and why my ends don't look fried or dried out like they normally do when I use this spray.  Or how it causes curls to play together nicely, instead of looking like they came from eight different peoples' heads.  Or how it helps me to blow out my own hair, including stubborn cowlicks, previously impossible.  

Hopefully I won't find out in ten years that the price of easily fabulous hair is a hole in my scalp or something, because I am seriously addicted!

All Star - The Eyes Have It

I've pulled this bad boy out of my makeup bag more times than I can count.  At my desk, on the bus, on the subway, in front of the refrigerator.  My using it in the office causes a mass run on Duane Reade.

It de-puffs, hydrates, reduces dark circles.  It goes on over makeup.  Its gentle enough to use on eyelids.  Its paraben-free.

What is it??  Its Vichy's eye roller.  I've been asked about it so many times that it merits its own post.


And yes, you can put it in the refrigerator.  No, you don't have to, it remains magically cooling even stuffed into your makeup bag.

NB:  speaking of eyelids, there was another burned eyelid emergency issue this weekend.  People.  Really.  If the tube says, "Avoid Eye Area", then it means "Avoid Eye Area".  While it may include that warning because the product will irritate your actual eyes, many things (like enzyme peels, retinoids, salicylic acid....) are formulated for the thickness of skin on, say, your chin.  So read the label, and avoid being nominated for the Darwin Awards of Skin.

Out, Out Damn Spot! Act II

Yes, its true.  TSCG does get them too.  Blemishes.  Pimples.  Breakouts.  Zits.  Mostly, I suffer from the dread ClAcne (cleavage acne), resulting from sweating in a high-performance sports bra, which seems to be fiendishly difficult to eradicate, and fiendishly prone to scarring.  And lately, I've been getting the occasional pimple on my neck too, which are at least as difficult to get rid of, if not more so.

Barring rushing off to my beleaguered dermatologist and begging for cortisone shots, what to do, what to do??

The obvious answer is prevention (duh) but its sort of too late for that, and clearly, prevention didn't work this time.  So NOW what to do, what to do?  Two methods seem to work best:  1)  layer salicylic acid gel (try Neutrogena's if your skin is tolerant, or ph Advantage's if you're prone to dryness or redness) under benzoyl peroxide; or 2) overnight, use Mario Badescu's Drying Lotion, which looks like calamine lotion but works with lightning-fast speed, doesn't migrate, and magically works on the blemish only.  AND it seems to work on body acne too, when nothing else does.  During the day, use a concealer with salicylic acid in it.  Benefit used to make a fantastic product called Galactic Shield, but its been discontinued.  Grrr.  Clinique also made a pencil, but discontinued it in favor of an awkward tube that dispenses too much product and doesn't fit neatly into a cosmetic pouch.  Jane Iredale still makes a pencil, but its dual-ended (treatment on one side, concealer on the other.)


DON'T pick at it, DON'T go crazy exfoliating when you have an inflamed blemish, DON'T extract a whitehead yourself, DO gently disinfect the area with an alcohol swab prior to applying a treatment, and after washing your face.  DO continue to moisturize, but make sure your moisturizer is non-comedogenic.

Back to prevention for a second, DO try YonKa Creme PG.  Its gentle, and it does help.  Swear!

Random Thought Bubble

I just went away for a week.  Being the fanatic that I am, I will take off all of my nail polish and re-do it if I have one chip.  This is an annoying tic in the best of circumstances, and one that becomes almost paralyzing while on the road.  Particularly because packing nail polish remover wipes, mini base coat, color, and top coat weigh my bag down even more than it already was.  Which is hard to believe, I know.

What's a girl with beauty OCD to do?  Gels are the obvious answer.  EXCEPT that this girl with beauty OCD is constantly harping on the hazards of sun exposure, and gels are cured under UV lamps. Is that so bad, you ask?  After all, your hands are only under there for two minutes per cure, four rounds total, weighing in at eight minutes of UV exposure per gel application.  The answer:  yes, its that bad.

Consider this:  the offending lamp is about a half-inch from your unprotected (and very thin) skin.  Sun damage is cumulative, and even when getting a regular manicure, you probably use those tempting UV dryers to get out of the salon faster, right?  So how much damage are you really doing every year??  Answer:  a lot.

You can slather your hands with physical sunscreen, but your manicurist may have a herd of cows, since your nails must be 100% dry and oil free for the gel to adhere properly.  So instead, try wearing fingerless gloves (which are really fingerTIPless) during a gel manicure.  The best kind?  Gloves that have a high UPF rating, which fingertips you cut off yourself to ensure that they cover as much of your fingers as absolutely possible.

Yes, you'll look like a crazy lady.  But by your third manicure, you'll be surprised by how many other crazy ladies at your local mani-pedi place are doing the exact same thing.