Wednesday, September 2, 2015

The Korean Influence

I'm getting a lot of accusations about being influenced by the Korean trend lately.  Specifically, the trend to follow a regime popular in Korea, eg using about as many steps in one's skincare routine as it takes to kick a hard-core meth habit.  Nay! Say I....they're imitating me!  Kidding of course.  I have, however, long been frustrated by the inability to find products that do as much as I'd like them to do:  unwrinkle, brighten, firm, hydrate, moisturize, protect from environmental damage....you get the picture.  So as much as it may appear that I enjoy beginning my bedtime skin routine while I'm still in the office or at dinner, that is not in fact the case.

Some ingredients are fiendishly difficult to mix together, either due to their inherent chemical instability or because they just don't play well together in the sandbox.  Some are most effective when applied in the morning, others at night.  Some are most effective applied to bare, dry skin, while others kind of boost up the effectiveness of other products that you've just applied.

To wit:  Vitamin C, one of my top picks for anti-aging and anti-oxidant protection, is best applied on bare skin in the morning.  Why?  Because it's extremely strong, so it's hard to gauge how it will react to something already sitting on your skin, particularly something with active ingredients.  BUT once it's in, it's in, so you can (cautiously) layer other stuff on top.  Even better, it boosts the power of your sunscreen, so all other factors aside, it's a natural for day.  Similarly, retinol and related derivatives are all-stars in the anti-aging retinue, but are the sandbox bullies of skincare.  They need to go first, and should only come out at night.  (Certain evidence suggests that using retinol during sun exposure can increase one's risk for skin cancer.....eeek!)  AND retinol is notoriously unstable in the bottle, because it starts to break down when exposed to the elements.  Look for airtight packaging like a pump or a tube.  Brief aside, if you're the type who likes to slather, a pump is terrific because it will keep you in line.  More is NOT more with a lot of active ingredients.  Abuse retinol and you'll wind up with a red, scaly mess of a face.

Now, there ARE a few products that are basically one-bottle-stop miracles.  I've been testing out two, and will review shortly, (I swear, not in three months!)